need help with a 1210 !!!

[Northern Star]

Originally Posted by presuminged

Not exactly super basic, but i found this on the net....This is a full calibration guide:
Technics 1200 Pitch Calibration

take it thats for 1210 too

[glenn]

do you think messing about with the start/stop dile type thingy in there would effect the quality of the pitch then?

[Northern Star]

i honestly couldnt say

[Biskit]

Originally Posted by glenn

do you think messing about with the start/stop dile type thingy in there would effect the quality of the pitch then?

nope thats the start stop thingy (power up) the other is the pitch

[Presuming Ed]

Yeah debs..it'll work the same for 1210s...only difference with a 1200 is the colour. Ed

[Northern Star]

Originally Posted by presuminged

Yeah debs..it'll work the same for 1210s...only difference with a 1200 is the colour. Ed

nice 1 ed cheers for that

[Biskit]

Just to take thread off topic, thought id add this bit of info about the 1200/1210 series, seen as its a technics thread.

This is taken from Joel @ the turntable factory..

>>>SL-1210???WHAT'S THAT?<<<

I've gotten a lot of e-mails from you "Technics buffs" asking, in part "I have (can get) an SL-1210 MK2. What does that mean? Well, here's the story:

It seems that North America was always a different market for audio equipment, because our electric is generally 117 volts, 60 Hertz. Most of the rest of the world uses 220 volts / 50 Hertz, or a combination of those 2. In the case of the turntables, the only differences, electronically, was a multi-tap transformer, and a different power supply board, complete with a 117/220 switch. As the drive on these machines is "frequency generated", there was no need to do anything about the 50/60 Hertz difference. Technics,along with many other of the Japanese and European manufacturers, made different versions of the same unit for different markets. Technics has been known to make 4 or 5 different versions of the same model!!

Now, we explain how you got what, back when these were new, and why: The 1200's sold here (U.S.) were single voltage (117 volt) units, and were noted as 1200MK2 or M3D, first, only available in silver, but later made available in "black" (actually a very dark charcoal grey). If you bought these goods new, say at a Manhattan, NY "importer", or other non "Factory Authorized Panasonic / Technics Dealer", the chances were nearly 100% that you were getting a unit destined for another market other than the US. All "Official" Technics electronics came into the US through Panasonic Distribution.

"Grey Market Goods", which were those sold by non Technics dealers, meant that they were bought overseas, and brought here, to be sold direct to the public, bypassing Panasonic distribution and dealers (and extra mark-up!). Usually a bit less expensive new than the US counterpart, there were disadvantages, the biggest being that Panasonic/Technics would NOT honor ANY warranty.

What you actually bought would have depended where you bought it, but most ALL were multi-voltage switchable, and that's the big giveaway! A Technics turntable that had a "10" as it's last 2 numbers, rather than "00", meant it was destined for the non-US market, and, 99% of the time was (is) available in the dark charcoal color, only, and did NOT come here through Panasonic Distribution, making them "Grey Market". There are some exceptions to this rule, but most apply to other models.. an SL-1350 is an early stacking changer, available here in the US in dark charcoal,only.. but, if you add "10" to the "50", you get a"1360", and that's the non- US version, and is SILVER!!

Used SL-1200MK2/M3D's and their 1210 counterparts, are worth the same money, in the same condition. The only advantage to the 1210 models is that IF you plan to use them overseas, all you need do is turn an easily accessable switch under the platter to change from 117 volts to 220 volts, which meant a step-up (or step-down transformer would not be necessary. When Technics switched to the all-plastic units, for their non-pro line, around 1980 (with a few exceptions), it started their downhill slide. It got to a point in the mid 80's that the quality of their units were no better than any other on the market, and so they took a back seat. It must be said, however, that their continuing manufacture of the SL-1200MKII is a credit to them. The quality hasn't suffered in the last 15 or so years, even if the list price has (at last glance, $650, but recently down about $100 in order to better compete with the myriad of DJ turntables now flooding the marketplace!)

[Presuming Ed]

Irrelevant really..the calibration will still work is what i mean

[Biskit]

Originally Posted by presuminged

Irrelevant really..the calibration will still work is what i mean

nah thought id put it up seen as you mentioned colour n its a technics thread. So irrelevant to you, but useful info to others

[sy69]

Originally Posted by glenn

do you think messing about with the start/stop dile type thingy in there would effect the quality of the pitch then?

Got told if u mess with that when u press the stop button the deck will go backwards,and probably screw up the start up speed.

[Entropy92]

Originally Posted by presuminged
If you remove the platter (lift off the spindle) there is a Plastic grille type cover with about 4 or 5 screws. If you remove this you will see a blue potentiometer (Which if the decks has been pitched up will have the arrow at 3 o'clock) the factory setting is for the arrow to be pointing to 12 o clock, so will need to be turned 'Anticlock wise' back to that position'. Ed

if u are planning on doing this read the note what says TAKE THE PLUG OUT cause i just turned it off at the wall and got a nasty fuckin shock off it lol

[Presuming Ed]

I would have thought it was pretty obvious if you are dismantling an electrical unit to unplug it

[Northern Star]

Originally Posted by presuminged

I would have thought it was pretty obvious if you are dismantling an electrical unit to unplug it

lol

[Entropy92]

well im just informing the minority that are as thick as me!

[Presuming Ed]

Originally Posted by Entropy92

well im just informing the minority that are as thick as me!

Ha ha Ok....Its worth noting though that even unplugged you should still be careful as you can discharge onto the circuit, in a similar way you get a shock from car doors, due to a build of of static electricity...Not that common like but more likely to happen with its hot...Hope you didn't get too much of a jolt fella.